TUV Help!!!! please K20a2 US spec EJ9

SO I finally made the switch from the American side to the German side. Now my issue is trying to get my car through TUV. Please any help will be looked into consideration to get me through TUV.

Option 1:

Import my car through ZOLL and change everything that I can to make it legal on the German side!

Option 2:

Get a German spec civic and transfer everything TUVable onto that shell!

BELLOW is a list of what is on the car...............

Exterior
BuddyClub Vented Hood (clear coat a little hairline cracks) OEM hood included
J’s Racing ek vented fenders
APR GT mirrors
ALL moldings replaced
New paint Job (been garaged since and 1 car show)
VIS carbon fiber trunk (color matched)
Mugen trunk latches
CTR wing
EDM rear fog light
CTR window Visors
CTR antenna delete
CTR front lip (first molding lip can be included for best offers)
CTR headlights
CTR taillights
CTR rear lip
Suspension
Skunk2 Coilovers
Skunk2 struts
Skunk2 front camber arms (New ball joints)
Skunk2 rear lower control arms
ASR rear subframe brace
ASR 22mm swaybar
Desmond regamaster evo wheels with sticky icky yokohamas
OR Kosei k1 wheels toyo proxes
Interior
Full Canadian BLACK interior
New OEM carpet
OEM civic floor mats
CTR armrest delete
Double din block off plate
CTR airbag delete (black)
EK4 Guage cluster
J’s racing steering wheel
NRG slim hub
NRG quick release
Power windows
CTR red door panels
Miracle X bar
CTR red Recaros
Takata drivers harness
CTR rear seat
Motor
K20a2 110k Kilometers of a RHD EP3
Timing chain and tensioner replaced with OEM
Fully sandblasted and resprayed
RSX type s Engine harness
Ktuned conversion harness
Hybrid racing no cut shifter box V2
Doctronic PRB fully programable ECU (Europe’s Hondata, Exact as Kpro)
RBC intake manifold
Ktuned RBC TB adapter
Ktuned tucked fuel system
Ktuned 4-1 big tube header
Kteller 2.5 in exhaust pipe
Vibrant stealth muffler
Ktuned AC/PS relocation kit
Ktuned ECT sensor adapter
Powdercoated Valve cover
Ktuned cold air intake
Acutiy TPS sensor (calibration harness included)
Full downstar engine bolt kit
Karcepts radiator relocator
Ktuned radiator hoses
Ktuned heater hoses
Fluidine radiator
Mitshimoto Slim fan
Mitshimoto low temp thermostat
Action clutch stage 3
Hasport motor mounts
MORE MORE MORE……….


thanks HONDA POWER!!:honda:

all parts you might not see on the first sight, look original, are OEM or woulnd´t have any negative influence on exhaust gases, loudness, idle run, chassis stability and safety might not be the problem.

for regular tuv-approval you might need the approval papers, e.g. material oder process related.

for example rhd-speedmaster are known to bring k20 civics on the streets. have you heard of them?

Thank you. Yes I have heard of them but from what I hear that it is costly €€€€€. But I will try contacting them.

There are enough K20 guys in here that have a legal K20 civic registered and tuved. Maybe the will write later.
Not everyone of them was at RHD speedmaster for the approval ....

Yeah I've seen a couple swapped integra and civics here. I'm willing to comply with OEM parts. I just need to verify what's TUVable.

TÜV braucht man nicht anglizieren @Alf. ;) Tuven ist aber auch gut. Angli-Neologismus at its best.

btt: I think he was asking for the whole setup, not just the engine swap. And there are many parts which are impossible for german registration without spending €€€€ to speedmaster/....

All those non OEM exterior parts, suspension, wheels, exhaust, airbag delete, harness, steering wheel, for example. No chance without spending some extra money.

Thanks and possibly I'll be buying a German spec civic and drop the k20a2 in there. Seems to be the best option.

Is a k24a2 from the US able to be TUV?

Why give up the projekt? As it is an import, I would first try RHD speedmaster. Via Import, he has more chances to get a lot of your parts and modifications streetlegal. But the biggest thing I am missing, the catalytic converter!? I see good chances, that RHD will be able to legalise it. And what are maybe 3.000€ on top, to an project with already money dumped in such an amount?

Thanks so far what I think that needs to be changed or added is 280mm front brakes OEM, side markers, suspension such as KW or D2 (which I heard is not a problem), catalytic converter, OEM air box and possibly some German spec facelift headlights.

I believe all my sway bars and lower, upper control arms are not TUVable (skunk2, ASR)

other then that I don't know if I need to change my shifter box, Alternator re locator, fuel rail, shift cables and hoses (ktuned and hybrid racing)

thanks for the assistance team !

since my car has no ABS or airbags do I need anything extra such as a roll cage?

if anyone would like to see the pics of the car and can help feel free to text me VIA whatsapp 015146252378 (Kevin)

Most important are lights, brakes, noise and the environment. The rest is just a question of willing and money. :D Airbag and ABS is so far not an issue.
But EUDM lights, a suitable brake (related to the power) and definitely a catalytic converter, as well a not too loud exhaust are the minimums.
The Rest just needs the right TÜV engineer and of course a budget. And I am pretty sure, RHD will be able to help you.

Great info. thanks again and if you can assist with any of the parts I need that would be great.

Hello,

for the cat I recommend always HJS.


HJS Nr. 90950160 or some others like me using HJS Nr. 90950162.
The 160 is the recommended one for the EP3, as I remember correct, but better to contact HJS direct.

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Zitat von SPY#-2194

Hello,

for the cat I recommend always HJS.


HJS Nr. 90950160 or some others like me using HJS Nr. 90950162.
The 160 is the recommended one for the EP3, as I remember correct, but better to contact HJS direct.

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Are the magnaflow or SRS kat ok to use?

You get, what you pay for. ;)

Edit:

Or lets point it another way. If you ask for very good rims and somebody tells you, "Buy Volk TE37!" your question for SRS would be like "Are Rota Grip also fine?".

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Zitat von SPY#-2194

You get, what you pay for. ;)

Edit:

Or lets point it another way. If you ask for very good rims and somebody tells you, "Buy Volk TE37!" your question for SRS would be like "Are Rota Grip also fine?".

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this is true! I can still get parts shipped here from the states in Dollars and I don't pay import fees or taxes. SSR is a pretty cheap brand which was a worst case senerio.

So to match up with my ktuned 4-1 header would you recommend Ktuned or the magnaflow, with my kteller 3in piping for TUV?

I contacted RHDspeedmasters and sent them the list of my car. The kat, headlights, brakes are the bare minimum. Price is starting at 1800Euros. I want to try and keep it near or as close to that if possible.

As I said, I recommend HJS. ;) The Diameters very from P/N to P/N. But anyway, it is possible to cut the cones of the cat, to fit perfectly the piping diameter.

The SRS cat. converter will fullfil the exhaust requirements on the K20.
There are a few guys in here, that are using them on K20 EK and K20 EG.

Well, they do not have a good, flowfriendly shape ... but they will do the trick just fine for your TUV problem...

Of course the SRS will work. But the question is, for how long? I know HJS cats, that are running now more than seven years in a daily and still working. Does it help to save maybe 200€, but after maybe four years you will need to buy a new converter? I was always a friend of thinking sustainable. ;)

But everybody has to decide on its own.

Edit: And what will help on addition, the HJS is already certified for Euro 4 on Opel Engines, 2.0 Liters Turbo. It has ECE which maybe helps to convince the TÜV engineer about your projekt.

Edit2:
And if you contact HJS to request what would be there recommended cat as replacement for an EP3 and they answer, you might have even better chances. ;)
0.02$(€)

As far as I know does RHD only Accept HJS cats or any cats with e-symbol? So SRS wouldn't work at RHD.

RHD can help you out and weld in an catalytic converter during the TUV process ;) I know that because they did it for me on my former CR-X EF8.

Thanks for all the help guy, but car is on its way back to America. Stand buy for the next build. :=(

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psihh0rvz0.jpg
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http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psi7lruuwh.jpg

So why didn`t it work for you at the end?

I just couldn't see myself building the car to my expectations, then having to pay thousands more Euros just to legalize the car on the roads here in Germany. From changing out CTR headlights to getting certifications on every part was a pain in the butt. I decided to just send the car back to the states where it will be sold or takin care of by other friends and family.

I will continue many more projects to German standard. With proper and necessary parts needed and certified in order to enjoy my passion here in this Beautiful country.

thanks again

I see...

Well, there was no need to get every certification/paper for every part. I`d go through your parts list and tell you whats expected to be ok, possible or no go.
The headlights are the least of the concern you might find, realy ... and after the inspection and getting road legal, you may want to swap the parts back and legalize them elsewhere :)

Well, sad to hear about your disapointment. Even getting the car back to the states, selling it or even do a partout isn`t a good plan in my mind. With a bit of a partout in EU, you might get the swap parts, pass the TUV and finally take the car where it belongs: on the streets and tracks.

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I just couldn't see myself building the car to my expectations, then having to pay thousands more Euros just to legalize the car on the roads here in Germany.

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The pain we all here have to go through. But as all must do it, many found TÜV-guys with better understanding for your needs, with whom you can discuss parts and arrangements. Maybe with more patience and some good contacts of the guys around here you can legalize your next project and you can drive all the streets you want to see...believe me there are soooo many which are worth to drive and see. E.g. in my homeland

Anhang 7282

The arrow indicates an old hill climb track start line...just follow the picture link or www.jochpass.com to get more information about it. These and much more of them are worth to drive with an proper NA engine in a very nice car you did and sent back to the States (wrong way ;)).

Thanks bud, that's my problem is the contacts in my area. As I continue to live here I am meeting more contacts and learning more information about the laws as well as learning German. I have current new builds that will be ready next season. As for my white hatch I sent back I just couldn't stand seeing it sit in my garage with no plates and not drivable. I build my cars to perform and be driven. Ill be back on the streets burning rubber and decorating the pavement.

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...I have current new builds that will be ready next season. As for my white hatch I sent back I just couldn't stand seeing it sit in my garage with no plates and not drivable...

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With that much passion why don't you professionalize it? It seems you have the right passion and ability to do it! BTW, that would be the most intense way to learn to handle the legalize thing. On some meetings or fairs like the "Tuning World" at the Bodensee (Friedrichshafen) the TÜV guys have a booth there. You can meet them easily and discuss your ideas, issues and ask for advice. I often met TÜV stuff which were out of the range to discuss tuning project aims as these guys never had contact with tuning task of that extend. But there are specialists who know the law and technical side as well as have the balls to go to its extend to service you with your project. It is like often in life, Vitamine B (German idiom for "valid contacts") and the right time helps a lot...just keep going to find that.

I am a long time observer of the US aftermarket and tuning scene, in some states you are allowed to build anything you want as long as you can place a license plate and lights on it. That made me really envious and changed my mind about to emigrate to the US as tuning and engine design are my greatest passions. As life have also external impulses (family...) I found a different direction to do it, I am still on creating it but the outlook is good enough to proceed :). I could imagine staying here and to challenge this licence plate stuff is like a double-edged sword for you. I have great respect for it, as it means a great challenge standing between your passion for car building and driving it at a place where you are not in the circle of your relatives and US friends. But as you said it, and this a strong plus point here, the living here is not bad, the landscape has holiday level on many places of - US scale-wise - short distances in between. And, there are many builds out there of the level you already made and they all have a licence plate. I hope you are back on the streets soon, my master piece is ongoing since 2015 but I designed and tuned a higher double digit number of engines since than.

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WHICH BUILD WILL BE DONE FIRST????

ITR makes k-Swap a bit easier in Germany/Europe, as it has the highest power already stock. So easier to pass the European law regarding the „110% power“-restriction. You dyno your swap with 210 hp with the tech.-rep. of TÜV onside, you pass the noise test with a good and silent exhaust, together with either EP3 or Jamato catalytic converter (maybe he excepts also HJS cat) et voila, street legal swap. Wheels and suspension you should choose stuff delivered with German certificate (or excepted alternates e.g. EWG cert.)
That are the biggest stones, laying in the way for a swap car. :)

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WHICH BUILD WILL BE DONE FIRST????

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Your workshop? The black chassis, than the blue, than the white :D...

No! For sure first the gray preface DC2! 8)

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Zitat von SPY#-2194

No! For sure first the gray preface DC2! 8)

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Black. Isn't it a track chassis already?

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Black eg5 is in preparation for track chassis. The grey 95 dc2 is boosted b series forged and built.

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Black eg5 is in preparation for track chassis. The grey 95 dc2 is boosted b series forged and built.

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Start with the fun part...it would feed your motivation for the challenging TÜV requirements.

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Zitat von LotusElise

Start with the fun part...it would feed your motivation for the challenging TÜV requirements.

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That is the plan, I'll probably start a thread on my builds, I just need to start taking pictures?
I'm going to try and keep as much as possible original on the kswap, interior will just be a cage, recaro seats and harness. All energy suspension poly bushings with of course a cert. Suspension and hjs kat. Thanks for the help again team!

And try to find a TÜV Prüfer first, to discuss your plans and what parts you will use.
As I said, the HJS cat has a ECE cert, but officially this does not help anyhow as it has been not issued for the K20. Easiest would be to use a EP3 OEM cat. After TÜV, you swap in a better cat, maybe with v-bands. For every periodic check, you swap back the OEM one.

I would ditch the ES-bushings for something different ... (I went for a mix of Hardrace, OEM, Mugen, ES)
Practical experiences over the last years showed, that they are not recommendable in every suspension position.